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Laurent
A billionaire's dream
Jorg Zipprick's Culinary Journal - Free Lance Correspondent to the Paris Pages Text copyright (c) June 1995 Jorg Zipprick - used with permission.
Sponsoring is a fine thing: it makes tickets for concerts or theatres payable
and the artists can work without economic sorrows. But even if Music- festivals
or sports-events can easily find a "big spender", the creators of our culinary
pleasures are a bit chanceless om money-matters. So why shouldn't a man who
almost has everything buy a restaurant? A place to meet his business-friends, a
place to celebrate or simply have a good meal. Naturally this shouldn't be a
"everyday-restaurant", but one of the best, situated not in a culinary no-man's
land but in Paris, the capital of Haute-Cuisine.
Sir James Goldsmith, an anglo-french business-man , speculator and one of the
richest men in Europe did exactly this: He bought the "Laurent", a magnificent
restaurant behind the Champs-Elysees, renovated the house of 1842 and engaged
the experienced Edmond Ehrlich as "President-Directeur" of his new enterprise.
The wine-cellar was confied to Philippe Bourgignon, one of the best sommeliers
of France, and the great chef Joel Robuchon was gained as consultant. Its his
disciple Philippe Brown (the nephew of three-
Star-Chef Emile Jung in Strasbourg) who is now well-occupied with the pots and
pans in Laurent's kitchen. The young alsatian chef nearly doesn't need any
consultation of his former master - for the great surprise of his guests he
regularly creates new dishes in a very own style.
Now multimillionaire Goldsmith is the owner of one of the most beautiful
restaurants of Pars, with great cuisine, first-class-service and a magnificent
terrace for Paris-summer-nights. And as this man doesn't really need this place
to make money, he offers the guests of Laurent the very best value for their
money: Only 380 FF for a two-star-meal with for example gelee d'araignee de mer
or foie gras aux feves noires (this is a kind of foie-gras-chili which Philippe
Brown created when marrying in Mexico!), ragout d'homard au polenta or pigeon
grille au
puree de petits pois (roast pigeon with mashed peas), cheeses and dessert.
When choosing a la carte, you will have to pay more than the double - but you'll
taste some rare french specialities like the boeuf de Coutancie - meet of oxes
of the south of France which are massaged once a day and fed with three liters
of beer, like the Japanese Kobe-Beef.
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