La Crême de La Crême; Le Cordon Bleu
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By Kim & Carl Davaz

Paris Kiosque - April 2005
Volume 12, Number 4
Copyright © 2005 Kim & Carl Davaz
Used with permission.

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This does not come cheaply. Tuition for Le Grand Diplôme plus uniforms and equipment is about $35,000. Le Cordon Bleu has opportunities for learning besides enrollment full-time toward Le Grand Diplôme. Those with less time, including visiting tourists, may take gourmet sessions, which are translated into English. Each class is a demonstration followed by a practical class. Single-session "Sabrina" courses, in memory of the Audrey Hepburn film where she learns to cook at Le Cordon Bleu, are held Wednesday nights. There are also classes taught in Japanese, Petits Cordons Bleus for children, guest chefs, flower arranging and wine classes. If scheduling allows, spend one day discovering Paris markets, four days learning traditional bread baking or a month-long immersion in French gastronomy and language.

Head Chef Patrick Terrien describes a technique during a fish demonstration.

The citrus and fresh sea scent of hake in hollandaise and salmon with sorrel sauce gives way to sweet toasted almonds and chocolate as a beginning pastry demonstration follows Chef Patrick Terrien's fish class.

Pastry Chef Michel Besnard, the most tenured of Le Cordon Bleu's 26 chefs, describes the process in French as he rolls dough to create pierres de lune or "moon rocks" during a basic pastry demonstration class. French language presentations are translated into English in only the basic classes.

Chef Michel Besnard stands before 50 students and observers in a white tile and stainless steel demonstration kitchen, sifting powdered almonds with sugar. He wears a tall pleated white hat and his jacket has his name embroidered in blue beneath the Le Cordon Bleu crest. Huge overhead mirrors that run the length of the cooking counter make it easy to see the entire work area. Some students take copious notes, recording every movement and word. A Japanese student's notes are a combination of Japanese, drawings and arrows, French and English. Students may ask questions or go up for a closer look during the demos. Why did he do that? Did he use pistachios or hazelnuts? "Pistachios," answers the chef, tipping the bowl for a better view of the light green filling. "What did he say about applesauce?"

The products of his demonstration, pierres de lune, chocolate and almond macaroons, piped biscuits with candied fruit and mirrors became tasty delicacies for students to examine and taste after the class.

A student goes up to the work area to inspect a rack of just-baked chocolate macaroons. He brings one back to his seat and after examining it closely, passes it on to those near him. It is soft but not gooey and pliable. The macaroons may be put together with a filling or they will stick to themselves if still hot. Just be sure to put the nicest one on top. "But these are all nice, so there is no problem," says Chef Besnard, smiling. They ARE all nice. He puts a few together and his assistant, student So Shukying from Hong Kong, finishes.

... To be continued next month in the Paris Kiosque.

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Kim Davaz is The Register-Guard's (Eugene, Oregon, USA) cookbook review columnist. Carl Davaz is the newspaper's assistant managing editor for graphics and technology.