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Letter From Paris

By Harriet Welty-Rochefort

Paris Kiosque - February 2001 - Volume 8, Number 2
Copyright (c) 2001 Harriet Welty-Rochefort - Used with permission.

What do most respectable Parisians do when gray old January rolls around?

Simple: they head for a spa.

While this may sound glamorous and out of sight for most of us common mortals, going to "take the waters" is a time-honored (and sometimes Social Security reimbursed) tradition in France.

Taking the waters (sea or spring) was what people did and still do when they have various aches and pains which need a lot of loving care in a peaceful environment dedicated to that and that alone. Serious and proven medical conditions are reimbursed by Social Security. However, more and more people, including under-60s and even under-30s, are flocking to spas preventively, either to just take a rest or lose weight or have a specific part of their body attended to.

Being a respectable Parisian, I too have come around to this, although in the beginning I thought spas were probably one of the most boring things I could envisage doing on a vacation.

Then I went - last year - to a spa located in St. Jean de Luz, a pretty little town in Basque country. Four days of delicious food later and two kilos lighter (?!), I decided that the French are really on to something here.

This year by the time November rolled around, I'd already signed my husband and I up for a week in January at a spa in Hendaye, near St. Luz, on the Basque coast. Massages, mud baths, huge tubs filled with sea algae, swimming in a huge pool were all part of the daily fare. There was also a fitness room for exercise but it was much more fun to hang out at the bar drinking Rioja and tasting tapas (Hendaye is on the Spanish border ).

In addition to the relaxation, the entire former French Soccer Team showed up for a few days of golf and relaxation. They may have gained years and pounds (hey, that guy looks like Michel Platini - it IS Michel Platini, dummy) but none of their glamour has worn off so it jazzed up the stay somewhat.

The thing about being a Parisian, though, a true one like my husband, is that no matter how great it is where you are, it's always better in Paris.

"Isn't this divine?" I would ask, as we strolled by the sea. "Wouldn't you just love to throw everything over and come down here to live in this peace and quiet on the coast?"

He looked at me as if I were truly certifiably insane. And although he too enjoyed the R & R (and especially the wine and tapas), the day he looked the MOST relaxed was the day we boarded our flight for Paris.

In the taxi on the way home on the péripherique amid the pollution and heavy traffic, he suddenly seemed more relaxed than I'd ever seen him before.

Was it the spa? Or was it being back in Paris?

I didn't even have to ask.


Harriet Welty-Rochefort, a bona fide Midwesterner from Iowa, visited Paris for the first time while in college. She became so completely enamored of France that she stayed - and has been there ever since. Married to a Frenchman and the mother of two Franco-American boys, Harriet Welty-Rochefort writes on business, lifestyle and travel for major U.S. publications. Her book - French Toast - is a lighthearted look at French manners and mores. Her second book, French Fried: The Culinary Capers of an American in Paris will appear in March 2001. Both are published by St. Martin's Press.

If you've had some funny, startling, satisfying, or dismaying food experiences in France you'd like to share, you may contact Harriet directly at hwelty@club-internet.fr. You may also visit Harriet's website here.

Editor's Note: Dear Readers, while our writers are always delighted to hear and to receive comments, both about their columns in the The Paris Kiosque, as well as your experiences in Paris, they are unable to answer any requests for travel information. Thank you for your understanding.

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Saturday, 21 November 2009
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