Image © F. Giovannangeli; used with permission.
Salon du Chocolat - Five Days of Chocolate Heaven
Paris Kiosque - February 1997 - Volume 4, Number 2
Copyright (c) February 1997 Françoise; Giovannangeli - used with permission
Amid Brazilian rhythms, carnival dancers, Aztec designs and a
multitude of chocolate sculptures, a crowd of onlookers eagerly gathered around
a demonstration. In the spotlight was Lenôtre's chocolate chef Philippe Bel,
stirring up a batch of thick, velvety chocolate. Alongside, smiling hostesses
extended platters of rich, dark truffles. Everyone looked happy as hands reached
for the trays from all directions.
Paris's second annual Salon du Chocolat, held last November at the
Espace Eiffel-Branly, turned out to be the ultimate destination for French
chocoholics: 8,000 square metres of chocolate-laden stands, where during five
days of festivities visitors could sample chocolate to their heart's delight.
Sponsored by the City of Paris, the event was a focal point for more
than 70 masters of the craft from around France and the cocoa-producing world,
as well as tens of thousands of chocolate lovers of all ages. In all, 24 tonnes
of chocolate were served up to the great satisfaction of more than 86,000
visitors.
One of them asked Mr. Bel, who looks after quality control at Lenôtre,
if he likes chocolate, if he ever tires of it: "I eat from 200-300 grams of it
each day," he replied with a controlled grin "and it's a pleasure every time."
The visitor, an English woman, looked reassured and thanked him before moving
along to see what was being offered at the next stand.
Image © F. Giovannangeli; used with permission
Names like Rollet-Pradier, Richart or La Marquise de Sévigné were
everywhere. There was both milk and dark chocolate, bitter, semi-bitter,
superior, fine or extra-fine. Counter tops were covered with creams, pralines,
nougatines, tablets and liqueur-filled pieces. In fact, the Salon was as close
to chocolate heaven as one could ever hope to get.
"I am the creator of La Maison du Chocolat," proudly announced Robert
Linxe, who runs one of Paris's most renowned chocolate houses. "I make
chocolates with everything -- lemon, orange, fennel, ginger -- but, I wanted to
produce something truly singular.
"Here, try my latest creation," he said, holding out a box of
diamond-shaped morsels which turned out to taste even more exquisite than they
looked. "It's wonderful isn't it. You know what's in them? A blend of basil,
rosemary and jasmine."
The subtleties of quality are taken seriously in France, where, from
an early age, many children are taught to distinguish, select and appreciate the
best in everything. One grandmother brought five visibly-pleased youngsters to
the show "because it's an opportunity for them to become acquainted with fine
chocolate. These days everything is getting spoiled," she said, "Here, they can
get a glimpse of the real thing -- and that's important."
Adults, of course, were just as thrilled. Several chocolate-lover
associations travelled to Paris for the occasion. Jean-Pierre Bensaïd is vice
president of the Club des Mordus de Chocolat (Chocolate Lovers' Club) of
Marseilles, a group of 200 enthusiasts who meet regularly to sample chocolates.
"We also organise costume dinners where the different courses all contain
chocolate. -- for example chocolate-stuffed foie-gras, duck in a chocolate sauce
and other dishes like that," he said.
The man behind the plethora of sculptures, which included a stunning
copy of Camille Claudel's "Desirs", is Serge Cazigou, who opened France's first
Musée du Chocolat last year. Mr. Cazigou, whose works are mostly nudes of
women, admits to freely indulging in his chosen medium on the job. "At night I
can't sleep," he explains, "That's when I think about my art and the pieces I
want to create."
Whether or not Mr. Cazigou's sleepless nights are due to the caffeine
contained in chocolate is another matter. Dr Hervé Robert, a nutritional expert
who has written a book about the therapeutic virtues of chocolate, is quick to
debunk popular misconceptions associated with what he considers a
nutritionally-rich food.
Dr. Robert reminded visitors that good dark chocolate -- with a
minimum 70 per cent cocoa -- contains plenty of magnesium and phosphorous and
that cocoa butter helps protect the cardiovascular system. It decreases
dangerous cholesterol (LDL) and increases production of the positive sort (HDL).
"And chocolate doesn't promote weight gain," he added, "It all depends
what you eat before or after."
A concern of many of the artisans present at the Salon are the
proposed European norms which may soon be adopted in France. Here, anything
labelled chocolate must contain no less than 35 per cent cocoa. If the new
legislation goes through, foreign industrial manufacturers who substitute
cheaper vegetable fats for cocoa butter, would be able to introduce these
products onto the French market labelled as chocolate. Under current French
regulations they cannot do so.
Judging by the crowds at the Salon du Chocolat, however, the French
public seems fervently appreciative of the real thing. At seven kilograms per
year for every inhabitant, France places sixth among European nations in annual
consumption of chocolate, the Swiss being the first (9.6kg).
Françoise Giovannangeli is a Canadian freelance writer who lives in Paris. She
can be contacted via
this link.
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