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French Fried: The Culinary Capers of an American in Paris, by Harriet Welty Rochefort, 2001. Harriet continues her attempts to demystify the French with French Fried, the saucy-sometimes spicy - and often hilarious tale of one American woman's 30-year foray into the byzantine world of French cuisine. And when it comes to food, Rochefort's experiences are anything but dull or traditional. When she first arrives in France, she dines on onion soup with her concierge. When she finally gets a decent apartment with a kitchen it turns out that there's both a shower - and a cop - in it.
Buy it!
A member of the Committee of the Anglo-American Press
Association, Gerogina Oliver is the Paris correspondant
of the British publishing review, "The Art Book". She
peppers her piquant visual arts column with fashion
and showbiz items "to make it more fun". Over the years,
she has deliberately diversified the scope of her
journalistic experience, which includes 10 years as a
TIME Inc. stringer, by branching out into TV and the
organization of cultural events. 126, rue Casteja,
92100 Boulogne. Tel: 46.08.52.13.
About this time of the year, US/UK/OZ/KIWI...expats start
to receive frantic phone calls, on the lines of: "We'll be
in Paris for a few days...what should we see? What should
we do?" In face of this avalanche of requests from
otherwise long lost friends or distant relatives "en route"
from their respective homelands, a sensible tactic might
be to leave town or hide behind the answering machine.
But, what do you do, if you belong to the "can't say no"
brigade? Well, there is always the "no,but..." option.
Make a list of two or three cleverly thought out theme
outings and keep it strategically placed by the phone,
at all times. Then, all you have to do next time you get
one of those unwitting nuisance calls, is spout out
something like: "Unfortunately, I won't be able to tag
along, as I'm snowed under with work...But, I do have a
few fun ideas, for you..." With fellow sufferers in mind,
I've prepared one or two suggestions, (all in some
way connected with art, not just because I'm a freelance
arts and style correspondant, but to add a touch of style
to my tips).
THE "B" LINE
One of the labels which fashion victims among those invaders
from the other side of the Atlantic or the Channel always
mention is Agnes B. Till June 30, Beaubourg, the Georges
Pompidou Modern Art Center, presents an exhibit of 40 top
international photographers' pix, all featuring Agnes B's
signature press-studded cotton jackets. Tell them to zoom
into that and then pop into the Museum's Cyberia Cafe to
catch up on the latest web news over coffee, before embarking
on a pilgrimage to the rue du Jour, by Saint-Eustache church,
near Les Halles, where France's most unassuming mainstream
designer opened her first boutique in a converted butcher's
shop, back in 1975. Now, the whole street seems to belong
to Agnes B. She even has an art gallery, the Galerie du Jour,
(6,rue du Jour, 1st; tel: 42.33.43.40) where she shows her
favorite artists' work and sells exhibition catalogues, as
well as a selection of art publications, (open Tuesday thru
Saturday, 10AM-7PM).
THE BRITISH EXCENTRIC PLAN
If you like to think of yourself as easy-going and welcoming,
but simple can't handle that seasonal flow of house guests in
transit, one well-tried solution is to suggest "a particularly
charming hotel". For instance, you could re-direct your
assailants to the Hotel des Saints-Peres, whose leafy
courtyard is a haven of tranquility in the hubbub of the
ever-hip Saint-Germain-des-Pres precinct, (65, rue des
Saints-Peres, 6th; tel: 45.44.50.00/720FF-100FF). Tell them
Francis Bacon used to stay there, then say they absolutely
have to see the Grand Palais retrospective, curated by the
Dublin-born painter's lifelong friend, David Sylvester,
(June 27 to October 14). Next stop - the Galerie Nationale du
Jeu de Paume, on Place de la Concorde, where a major exhibition,
titled "Un siecle de sculpture anglaise", puts the spotlight
on a century of gritty grappling with 3D a l'anglaise. To
be seen from June 6 to September 15, inside, as well as outside,
in the Tuileries gardens: Henry Moore, Anthony Caro, Eduardo
Paolozzi, Barry Flanagan, Gilbert and Gerorge...What should
your overseas friends wear at that expo? Jean-Paul Gaultier,
or Martine Sitbon, the two french designers most influenced
by London street fashion and MTV rock culture. Not exactly
"zee" correct dress code for their subsequent move: tea at
Angelina's (226 rue de Rivoli, 1st; 9AM to &PM) or drinks at
the bar of the Ritz (15 place Vendome, 1st). But, so "dans le
move".
JAPANESE VARIATION
At the Musee de la Mode et Costume (Palais Galliera, 10 avenue
Pierre !er de Serbie, 16th; tel: 47.20.85.23), until August 4,
"Mode et Japonisme" (1870-1996) charts the influence of Japanese
design and decor on French couture, from the turn of the century
to Poiret and Vionnet, right through to Dior, YSL, Castelbajac
and Margiela, not forgetting the Japanese innovators who came to
the world's fasion capital to make their mark: Kenzo, Issey Miyake...
Et les autres. (Tuesday-Sunday, 10AM-%:40PM, 35FF/25FF). Would
it be "kitsch" to suggest following this contemplative interlude
with lunch (12AM-2:30PM) or dinner (last orders 11PM/closed on
Sunday), at the Champs-ELysees branch of the Yakitori Japanese
restaurant chain? (24 rue Marbeuf, 8th; tel: 42.25.77.77). Wearing
what? How about a pair of cool as they're comfortable, feather-light
cotton and lycra pants, designed by Tokyo-born Irie, (900FF-1000FF/
8, rue Pre-aux-Clercs, 7th; tel: 42.61.18.28)?
KIDS' CORNER
Weary parents visiting the city's cultural hot spots with children
will be glad to take note of an excellent address. They should head
straight for "L'Enfance de l'Art". Run by Claudine Breon,
this government approved kids' workshop, in the Tuileries gardens,
near the Louvre museum, offers 4 to 12-year-olds a whole range of
next generation artistic activities, picnic included. (9:30AM to
5:30PM, weekdays only -- 30FF for a one and a half hour atelier;
50FF per half day/Serre du Jardin des Tuileries, Terrasse du bord
de l'eau; tel: 42.96.19.33).
CENTRES D'ART
The French government subsidizes numerous art centers.
"La ferme du buisson" -
This CAC is currently running a video choreagraphy exposition
entitled "N + N Corsino - Traversees".(12 May-28 June) The center
offers dance, theater and musical programs the evenings.
Tuesday-Sunday, 2PM-6PM. Open until 9PM the evenings when programs
are running. Centre d'art et de culture de Marne la Vallee, Allee
de la Ferme, Noisiel, 77347 Marne la Vallee Cedex 2, Tel: 64.62.77.00.
RER A, station Noisiel Luzard or by car take the A4.
Le centre d'art d'Ivry -
In honor of the Imaginaire Irlandaise, the CAC in Credac is featuring
Stephane Schofield, David Boeno and Alice Maher (27 March-9 June).
Tuesday-Saturday, 2PM-7PM and Sunday, 11AM-6PM. 93, avenue Georges
Gosnat, Metro: Mairie d'Ivry, Tel: 49.60.25.06
FETES DE LA JEUNESSE -
More than 1000 free musical and cultural shows will be put on
at over 80 locations in and around Paris. We went last year and
enjoyed some great music at Arenes de Lutece. There was something
for everyone. 1-2 June. All day. For programs or more information
call 42.76.21.21
Negro, spiritual and gospel singer, Manda Djinn is putting on
three concerts. 24 May and 7 June, St. Julien le Pauvre, 5th,
8:30PM and 6 June, St. Denys de Saint-Sacrement-au-Marais, 8:30PM
68 rue de Tarenne, 3rd. Tickets can be purchased at FNAC, 100FF.
Amateur dramatics association, Les Causettes is recruiting actors
and actresses. A group of Anglophones in Paris who put on plays,
their next production is in October. They are looking for people
who can do a "fair imitation of a Liverpudlian accent". Anyone
interested should contact Andy at 101354.3264@compuserve.com.
The American Library is hosting their annual book sale. Hardbacks,
paperbacks, magazines, children's books and more. 26 May, Noon-1PM,
members only, 1PM-6PM, Open to the public. For more info,
Tel: 45.51.47.71, Fax: 45.50.25.83 or
Email: 100142.1066@compuserve.com
Democrats Abroad is sponsoring an evening with Chinese American
dissident, Harry Wu. He will be speaking on Human Rights in China.
23 May, 7PM, American University in Paris (Grand Salon), 31 avenue
Bosquet, 7th. Contribution 50FF.
AngloFiles
- a publication
of the Anglophone community of Paris - is managed by Stephanie Kidder
and Rose Burke, Americans who met at
Alliance Française in Paris in 1995.
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French Fried: The Culinary Capers of an American in Paris