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If millions of people around the world
think the Champs-Elysées is the most
beautiful street in Paris, then in some ways it is. But it is not.
If they think Paris is the heart of France, then in some ways it is. But in
fact this is not true either.
The beauty and heart of any culture is much more complicated, subtle, delicate
and hidden. To move beyond the throngs, the masses, bent on Paris or bust,
you will have to move beyond this tyranny of numbers, and open yourself to
those places and ideas beyond the "glitz"; beyond the "glam" - places and
ideas where people, their past, present and hoped for future, are connected
because that connected-ness is what has allowed them to survive.
"Aveyron, A Bridge to French Arcadia" the new book by Thirza Vallois
is about just such a place. The Department of Aveyron is in southwestern
France, and has been long before it was named one of the
original 83 departments created during the French Revolution on 4 March 1790.
North of Montpellier, east of Toulouse, south of Clermont-Ferrand, its
capitol is Rodez - its residents known as Ruthénois, in a nod
to the tribe that was living in the region when the Romans came, the Rutenii.
But even before the Rutenii, there were other inhabitants in Aveyron
and they have left their prehistoric ruins scattered throughout the region.
Connecting this past, to the present, and on to its future is the new bridge
near Millau, spanning the river Tarn - the Viaduc de Millau formally opened just three years ago
in December 2004. It is the tallest vehicular bridge in the world; cable-stayed
with seven tremendous towers, the tallest being 343 metres high (higher
than the Eiffel Tower, and only 38 metres (125 ft) shorter than the
Empire State Building).
Les dramatic, but no less full of historical and cultural drama are
Aveyron's famous Languiole knives, and its Rocquefort cheese.
These are signature items of France - found in the best boutiques and
markets of Paris, or anywhere else in France - but they are really from
Aveyron; further testimony to the opening thesis that Frances heart
and soul lie elsewhere than Paris.
And it is here in Aveyron that Thirza Vallois has focused her fifth and latest book.
Part travelogue, part literary prose, all true, she has once again made
connections between all of those pieces that go into a place: its history, its
cuisine, its relics, its towns, rivers, mountains, farms, crops, animals,
and most of all, its people.
Among the world's experts on Paris - her three volume work "Around and About Paris" -
placed her immediately in the pantheon of contemporary Paris connaisseurati.
"Aveyron, A Bridge to French Arcadia" is an implicit acknowledgement that
if you seek to understand Paris, you must go elsewhere than Paris, and
that "little people count." Aveyron is full of "little people" - people who
have worked hard and asked for little in return - people far away from
the spotlight that shines daily on Paris.
But if Aveyron is too far away for you to visit - do not worry. Thirza Vallois will bring
you there with this latest flower in what is becoming a marvelous bouquet.
Norman Barth is the editor of the Paris Kiosque, and webmaster/creator of The Paris Pages.