Letter From Paris
Paris Kiosque - October 2001 - Volume 8, Number 10
Copyright (c) 2001 Harriet Welty-Rochefort - Used with permission.
I've often written in this column about what it's like for an
American woman to live in France for three decades of her life. Most of my
columns have dealt with cultural differences between the French and the
Americans, the constant surprises I get when I compare American reactions to
those of the French in domains ranging from food to "politesse" to education
to decision-making.
Both French and Americans have asked me over the years if I feel more French
or more American. It's a good question, considering that I have at this
point lived four more years in France than I did in the U.S. -- 26 years
in the States, 30 years in France.
I was raised and educated and worked for a while in the States before coming
to France. But it was in France that I started my adult life: marrying,
having children, working. All my daily activities are carried on in French
among the French. I speak to my mother-in-law in French, I put my kids in
French schools, I buy my groceries in French, I think in French francs (soon
Euros). I even understand the subtext, the nuances, of French conversations
and believe me, it takes more than French 101 to get to that point.
This being said, I have remained as American as apple pie which is why the
September 11 terrorist attacks on New York and Washington were like a
powerful punch in the stomach. Sitting in Paris watching CNN and French
television reports of the tragedy was a doubly horrifying experience,
horrifying because of its intrinsic horror and horrifying because I was so
far away.
I didn't feel alone for long though. French friends called to express their
horror, shock, indignation and sympathy. French newspapers, magazines,
radio stations and television devoted weeks to coverage of the event. Only
days after it happened, an ecumenical service (Protestant, Catholic, Jewish
and Muslim) held at the American Church on the Quai d'Orsay was attended
by French President Jacques Chirac, Prime Minister Lionel Jospin, and
members of the government. I was surprised to see signs on the storefronts
of shops in my street announcing a special mass at our local church in
memory of the American victims of the September 11 tragedy, a mass held in
English and French. This was truly extraordinary for to my knowledge there
are no English-speakers in the parish. The help of specialist rescue teams
was immediately offered to the US government.
"Nous sommes tous des Americains" (we're all Americans) was a phrase the
French media coined to formulate the country's solidarity with the
Americans. At noon on Thursday, September 13, normal activity froze as
bells rang from Notre Dame and other churches all over France and people
stopped in their tracks, in department stores, in the metro, in the street,
to bow their heads and observe three minutes of silence. Perhaps the most
telling gesture was that of French Communist Party leader Robert Hue at the
Party's annual gathering calling for three minutes of silence for the
American victims of terrorism.
Did you read about the above in the U.S. press?
To be sure, there was dissension and I wouldn't be surprised if you read
about that. Some - not the majority - of the Communists whistled and gave
catcalls. Some - very few - didn't observe three minutes of silence.
I am now starting to hear reports that the French are saying the States
"deserved" the attacks because of their foreign policy mistakes (I've also
heard reports of Americans saying the same things).
You can be sure that the U.S. press has and will pick up on any kind of
"anti-American'" reaction or remark the French will make. (I know - I
worked as a journalist for many years and can tell you that what's juicy
makes the news-whenever the French do or say something stupid, the U.S.
press picks up on it. The problem is that when the French don't, you don't
hear about it.)
What can I say?
Simply this. I don't live in a hostile country. The French, although
sometimes critical of America (because the French are critical in general,
including and mostly of themselves and their own leaders), are staunch
allies and firm friends of America.
I saw this on September 11 and the following days. And thirty years of
living here have convinced me that it's true.
So the next time you read or hear that the French are "anti-American",
remember this column and believe me: on the day America was hit from
within, these were the reactions - shock and horror and a generous and
spontaneous outpouring of kindness and compassion.
Did you read about that in your local paper?
Harriet Welty-Rochefort, an Iowa native and long-time resident of Paris, is the author of
both published by St. Martin's
Press.
For more information on Harriet's books, click on
www.hwelty.com.
If you've had some funny, startling, satisfying, or dismaying
food experiences in France you'd like to share,
you may contact Harriet directly at
hwelty@club-internet.fr.
Editor's Note:
Dear Readers, while our writers are always
delighted to hear and to receive comments, both about their columns in the The Paris Kiosque,
as well as your experiences in Paris,
they are unable to answer any requests
for travel information.
Thank you for your understanding.
