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French Fried: The Culinary Capers of an American in Paris, by Harriet Welty Rochefort, 2001. Harriet continues her attempts to demystify the French with French Fried, the saucy-sometimes spicy - and often hilarious tale of one American woman's 30-year foray into the byzantine world of French cuisine. And when it comes to food, Rochefort's experiences are anything but dull or traditional. When she first arrives in France, she dines on onion soup with her concierge. When she finally gets a decent apartment with a kitchen it turns out that there's both a shower - and a cop - in it. Buy it!

More Books About: Paris Guides , Paris Restaurants , French Cuisine , The Louvre


Letter From Paris

By Harriet Welty-Rochefort

Paris Kiosque - October 2007 - Volume 14, Number 10
Copyright © 2007 Harriet Welty-Rochefort - Used with permission.

It's a bird. It's a plane. It's... SuperSark !!

Nicolas Sarkozy, the new President of France, does indeed seem to be an ubiquitous Superman type of guy. Like all presidential hopefuls, he spent a busy campaign making promises about « getting things done » but unlike most presidents once they hit office, Sarko, as he's called, didn't slip regally into his role. He's a one-man band who has brought in a hectic, action-packed style of Presidency that has detractors stymied and admirers . . . admiring.

Whether you like him or hate him, you've got to admire the man's chutzpah. In only a few months, he's done things no other French presidents have ever done, either because they didn't want to or didn't dare to. On top of that, he's totally unapologetic about his systematic and intentional undermining of some very powerful French taboos.

What taboos ?

Oh, just about everything that's sacred to the French : their attitude toward money (don't talk about it and don't flaunt it if you've got it), their anti-Americanism (feigned or real), their intellectualism, and then some.

Money is probably the biggest taboo in France. Not that the French don't like money - they just don't like it out in the open and they have a word for people who do : nouveaux riches. By that definition, Sarko, who makes no secret of his wealthy friends, swanky vacations, tailormade suits, or even his Rolex watch, might indeed qualify. He shocked the boots off the French when he announced he was going to take some much-needed vacation after the hectic presidential campaign to « meditate » before his official inauguration. Everyone imagined him either in some convent or a quiet place in the French countryside when suddenly he surfaced on a millionaire friend's yacht off the coast of Malta ! This may not shock Americans (in fact, a friend of mine who was visiting France at the time couldn't figure out what the stink was all about) but that's because we don't have complexes about money in America. American presidents don't apologize for having wealthy friends Ð hey, that's how they get elected ! French presidents on the other hand keep a low profile when it comes to money. No going on the lecture circuit after their presidencies and amassing lucrative speakers' fees for them !

Next to money, admitting that you might actually like America is another big French taboo which Sarkozy smashed when he decided to take his family on a nice little summer vacation to. . . the States, and have a chat with (the greatly detested by the French) George Bush while on his turf. Cecilia wasn't having any of the Bush luncheon. She faked a cold and said she just couldn't go out. Odd, though, that the next day she was seen fit and rested with friends on a shopping trip. Did Sarko apologize for preferring to vacation in a cushy place in the States rather than more patriotically (and perhaps more modestly but that's not sure at all) in France ? No way. « I like America », he stated, instantly breaking the unstated code by which French presidents, like their people, refrain from publicly praising their giant and sometimes cumbersome ally. He of course added that « liking » America didn't mean automatic agreement with American policy. No self-respecting French president would leave that important qualifier out.

Sarko broke other taboos (for an excellent article on the subject, read « The French revolution » by Roger Cohen in the September 20 International Herald Tribune). One is the « I have to be an intellectual to be president of France » taboo. De Gaulle's memoirs are written with intelligence and style ; Mitterrand was the author of several books and peppered his speeches with literary references ; even Chirac, seen as smart but not « intellectual », turned out to have a secret passion for and immense knowledge of Far Eastern art.

Sarko has followed the presidential tradition of writing books, having two to his credit, but he's more well-known for exhorting the French to « do », not to think. How un-French can you get ?

Another taboo : the relationship between work and money. All through his campaign, Sarkozy kept repeating that work is good, and that (gasp) the more you work, the more you should earn. Saying the latter, in the country of the 35-hour work week and inflexible labor laws, was close to treason. But hammer away at it he did. The last totally shocking thing Sarkozy did when elected was to reach out to his opponents on the left and invite them to join his government. Accused of being anti-Muslim, Sarkozy suprised everyone by choosing a a young Muslim woman, Rachida Dati, as Minister of Justice, one of the highest posts in the government.

Sarkozy is an iconoclast. He's also hyper-active, a risk-taker, a can-do guy who seems to have no fear. I well remember the day in 1993 when a dangerous psychotic who called himself the « Human Bomb » invaded a pre-school in Neuilly (the pre-school my children had attended) and threatened to blow up an entire class of three-year-olds. Sarkozy, then the Mayor of Neuilly and Minister of the Budget, didn't hesitate a minute. He charged over to the school and negotiated with the « Human Bomb », unarmed, not leaving until he'd managed to free as many tiny tots as possible.

Is he spontaneous, reckless, or courageous ? Take your pick. In 2005, when he was Minister of the Interior, he called youthful offenders in the disadvantaged suburbs ringing Paris »scum » and said that the suburbs they lived in should be cleaned out with a « Karcher » (a powerful industrial hose), remarks that immediately got him classified as a racist. He said he was referring only to the criminal elements in these suburbs but the damage of his provocative, and decidedly undiplomatic, language was done.

As Adam Gopnik theorized in The New Yorker, this kind of behavior got many thinking that Sarkozy is himself somewhat of a Human Bomb.

It's true that there's a « loose cannon on board » quality about the man. Since he's become President, he's exploded the system, said things no one else would ever dare to say (for example, refusing to apologize for France's colonial past), taken on taboos, and exhausted journalists who have no time to analyze his actions since they're so busy following him from place to place.

He doesn't walk, he runs. Literally. Hardly a day goes by without a photo of the president huffing and puffing as he jogsj, wherever he may be. The jogging is a symbol, a way of saying « I'm constantly in motion for change, I'm young, I'm in shape and in control. » The question is : how long can this last and what will the concrete results of all this agitation be ?

Well, he's got five years to accomplish what he promised he'd do.

And a lot of running left to do.

Watch out ! It's a bird. It's a plane. No, it's SuperSark !


Harriet Welty Rochefort is the author of French Toast: An American in Paris Ce leb rates the Maddening Mysteries of the French and French Fried: The Culinary Capers of an American in Paris. French Toast was hailed by the Los Angeles Times as "wise and devastatingly funny". For world-famous chef Alain Ducasse, her second book French Fried "in a lively and hilarious style ... gives an inside look at the world of French cuisine and wine." Both books are published by St. Martin's Press. She is currently working on her third book about the French.

Coming to Paris? Harriet gives tailormade wine and cheese tastings to individuals as well as to university groups. For more information, visit her webpages: www.frenchfolio.com and www.understandfrance.com .

If you've had some funny, startling, satisfying, or dismaying food experiences in France you'd like to share, you may contact Harriet directly at harriet.welty@hwelty.com.

Editor's Note: Dear Readers, while our writers are always delighted to hear and to receive comments, both about their columns in the The Paris Kiosque, as well as your experiences in Paris, they are unable to answer requests for travel information. Thank you for your understanding.

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Tuesday, 2 December 2008
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