Nicely Rested After Vacation? Everybody Up and Lets Party!
France Forgets Summer by Celebrating Beginning of Autumn Season
Richard Erickson's Paris Journal - Freelance Correspondent to the Paris Pages
All images copyright (c) 1995 Richard Erickson - used with permission
Paris, Le Week-end,16-17. September:- In the rest of the world, after
the summer holidays, everybody goes back to work or school or goes
out looking for a job. This is normal and it happens in France too.
However, there are differences - this IS France - and one of them is
that this time of year has a name, 'La Rentrée,' which means: return,
or reopening.... of schools, courts, everything. It is not good
enough to merely send the kids back, you have to have a party about
it. We all slouched back about the 4th of September this year; but
this weekend just finished, was the party.
As usual, the Communist Party's 'Fête de l'Humanté;' attended by
their usual hordes of reds, played out in the rain and mud at the
Paris suburb of La Courneuve, just northeast of Paris, beside St.
Denis. The theme this year was 'The Bomb - Why France Can Live
Without It,' and there were plenty of sausages, petitions,
rum-punches with 'punch' and good old rock music, to go with it. It
is supposed to be a good show every year, but it is always in rain
and mud.
The 'Buffet Campagnard' also takes place rain or shine.
Taxpayers who neglect this chance, go dry for a year.
Also in the rain, the annual 24-hour world championship motorcycle
race, the 'Bol d'Or' whizzed, skated, and slid its way around the
track down at Le Castellet, watched by 100 thousand bikers, camped
in, what else? the mud. To conclude our rare sports round-up: the
surprise victor: the Kawasaki team.
On Sunday, throughout France, 'Les 12e Journées du Patrimonie'
happened. Seven million citizens turned out to inspect and tour
public buildings such as the Assembly National, the Elysees Palace,
and the Paris City Hall, known locally as L'Hôtel de Ville - as it is
called in every city, town and village in France. A couple from
Bordeaux expected to tour five sites in the capitol before returning
home on the TGV in the evening.
It is said that Paris is a collection of 100 villages; to which I'm
sure the historian, Fernand Braudel, would have agreed. If it indeed
so, then the Paris region, 'L'Ile de France,' contains many hundreds
more, one of which I live in.
On Saturday, L'Etang-la-ville (which is neither a lake nor large
enough to be a town) held its annual 'Fête des Associations.' The
parking lot of 'L'Hôtel de Ville' - we have one too! - was roped off,
tents were erected, and all the associations and clubs that exist
locally had stands set up to recruit new members for the new club
'year.'
Since the village here has only a Bar-Tabac-Café and there is no
restaurant, you have a choice between watching cable-TV or joining a
club, or several.
Well, think about it. We are in this Conglopolis with about 12
million inhabitants and a lot of people who live in the village work
in Paris - where, even though it is '100 villages,' it is only so for
those that live in them.
Recruiters for one of the two local parent's associations;
their last chance this school year to outnumber the competition.
What clubs and associations are available here? There's theatre,
painting for kids and adults, voice training, a library for adults
and another for kids, three dancing clubs, a kid's choir, every sort
of music, and musical comedy. Sports includes swimming (we borrow a
neighboring commune's pool), tennis, yoga, gym, judo, and fencing.
There are two parent's organizations for school kids and one for the
municipal babysitting. There is a 'Welcome' association (Minitel
number: 36 15 AVF ACCUEIL) through which you can have French
conversations in English and Spanish, learn a little patchwork, brush
up on decorative Islamic arts, frame pictures, play Scrabble, go
walking (the Forest of Marly surrounds the village), take cooking, or
take part in two jumble sales. (Next one: 22.-24. September.) You can
join a club to protect the village from the nasty old railroad, the
SNCF; the one that takes everybody downtown, since about 1892.
There's scouts, a parish association, a computer club, a photo club,
and finally, an association called "Radio Strange FM". Oh, I left out
the 'Green Hand.'
All the clubs in town try to recruit new members during
'Portes Ouverts,' rain or shine.
With all this - and it's not the whole list - it's no wonder that the
TV-cable company is unhappy with their local penetration; even though
reception of anything except rain - snow on TV - is nearly impossible
without it as the village is in a sort of gorge.
After the clubs showed their stuff, there was a 'Buffet Campagnard'
provided by the mayor (taxpayer's money that is), set up in tents,
with musicians in another tent. Since rain had seriously started by
this time, a good many of those present huddled under the arches at
one side of the 'L'H=F4tel de Ville' and, I suppose, told a lot of lies
about their summer vacations.
And this Sunday scene was repeated in hundreds of thousands of
villages throughout France, attended by everybody who was not
standing in line to tour 'L'Hôtel de Ville' in Paris.
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